Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds form.

This is maybe the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with plump mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just above Bristol town centre.

"I've noticed individuals hiding illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has organized a informal group of growers who make wine from several discreet city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments throughout the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

City Wine Gardens Across the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district area and more than three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help cities stay greener and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from construction by creating permanent, yielding farming plots within cities," says the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, community, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy grapes from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Activities Across the City

Additional participants of the group are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of vintage from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the smell of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the car windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her family in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."

Sloping Gardens and Natural Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated more than one hundred fifty vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an old way of making wine."

"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the juice," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches

A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a fence on

James Gutierrez
James Gutierrez

A passionate retro gamer and collector with over a decade of experience in preserving and sharing arcade history.